Posted on April 05 2022
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Among all the reviews and features about the Tissot Seastar 2000, I found two words that told me the basics. They were on the brand’s website and they describe this watch better than I could.
Muscular architecture.
These words chimed with me because they neatly summarised my first impression. This beast is designed to go deep underwater - and it feels like it. Yes, it's an attractive watch. But it feels like a tool. A tool with a muscular architecture.
I spent a week with the Seastar - let's see how I found it.
Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional Powermatic 80
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Tissot Seastar 2000 Blue Watch Review
The Seastar 2000 is a watch with a presence. You'll know within minutes if it's the watch for you. If you don't, then try picking it up. Once it's in your hand you really will know.
Why?
Because this is a large watch. It's thick, and given the tough construction, it's weighty. It's the watch at the top of Tissot's range of divers. Their most substantial model, with the highest specs. Specs that in other Swiss watches usually cost significantly more.
If a 46mm heavyweight dive watch is your thing, then there's a good chance that the Tissot Seastar 2000 is going to appeal to you. Primarily because there's not a great deal of competition for a high-spec Swiss-made automatic diver at this price point.
How does the Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional Look?
As I noted above, first impressions do matter. And the Tissot does make a strong impact.
After the size, what I next noticed was the distinctive wave effect dial. It's fairly unique and certainly differentiates the Seastar 2000 from other divers. The gradient dial - changing from a deep blue to black - is captivating.
The case - with its muscular architecture - is reassuringly thick. There's an industrial feel to the case, particularly evident on the sides and case back. The black PVD coating on this variation reinforces that aesthetic.
Overall, this is an honest watch. Its purpose is obvious. It looks like a professional divers watch.
How does the Seastar 2000 Wear?
This is essentially a beefed-up version of Tissot's popular Seastar 1000 dive watch. It's thicker, wider and slightly heavier. I can just about get away with it - but 46mm is pushing it for my slim wrist.
Still, it's quite a comfortable watch. While the case back is protruding and adds to the depth, the lugs are quite short and restrain the length.
The rubber and canvas strap on this model reduces the overall bulk and the helium valve is discreet and flush with the case edge. It feels like there is a competition on my wrist. On one side is the tool - the chunky and functional watch with its large case and industrial edge. On the other are the beautiful textured dial, crisp markers and stunning finish.
For many, that will be a successful blend of form and function. But for others, the smaller Seastar 1000 will be a better fit.
The Tissot Seastar 2000 Watch in Detail
This is a handsome watch that, despite its bulk, is comfortable to wear. That first impression is crucial when you see a new watch, but what about the details? Remember, this is the watch at the top of Tissot's diver's range - they've built the attractive package around a functional core.
First, let's answer the question about what you are getting for £930.
Let's put that question in context.
Take fellow Swatch Group brands Mido and Omega. Mido's 600M diver's watch the Ocean Star 600 is around £400 more than the Tissot. Omega's Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M is five times the price.
Tissot - a brand I class as entry-level for Swiss luxury - has made this a very attractive proposition. This is a high-spec diver's watch from a brand with real heritage. It doesn't only look the part - it also has ISO 6425 (2018) diver’s watch certification. It's worth taking a closer look at how Tissot has achieved this.
The obvious place to start is with the case. It's 46mm wide, with a chunky crown and prominent crown guards. The weight, while noticeable, isn't uncomfortable. I got my hands on the variation with a PVD coating, but if I was buying the watch I'd opt for the more conservative stainless steel.
Either way, the case and its robust construction are central to this watch. To perform at 600M below the surface this watch does need a tough exterior. So the case is substantial. But there are also design points that prevent any overkill.
Take the helium valve. It's built into the side of the case and is unobtrusive. It's also automatic so there's no need to manually unscrew an awkward valve. I like that and the shorter lugs that limit the lug to lug size to 46mm.
However, those lugs don't quite hug the wrist. The exhibition case back is slightly raised. This increases the thickness of the watch to just over 16mm. So this is definitely a watch more suited to the sea than the office.
As you'd expect of a watch with significant water resistance, the crown screws down. Finishing off the outer shell is an attractive ceramic bezel and a raised sapphire crystal.
The coveted Swiss workmanship is most evident in the dial. It's stunning. There's a lot to absorb and it took me a little while - and various lighting conditions - to fully appreciate the design.
Most obvious is the colouring. This model has a deep blue gradient dial that in some lights looks almost black and in others a pleasant sea blue. It was a bugger to do justice to in a photograph.
At first glance you may miss the black chapter ring tucked away between the black edge of the dial and the black bezel. But get the light right and it becomes quite clear.
The dial itself has a distinctive wave effect. Again, this looks different depending on the angle and the light. It really is a dial you need to see in the flesh to fully appreciate.
And this is where the Seastar 2000 wins.
The styling and finish come into their own on this dial. The markers are bold, raised and well-lumed. The same is true for the oversized hands. They're also bold and very legible.
While there is a lot of text on the dial it's not too busy. And the symmetry of the dial is maintained with a neat date window at 6 o'clock.
As well as the hefty water resistance, this watch also uses its movement as a major selling point. It's a Swiss-made Powermatic 80 movement. It's attractive, used by other Swiss brands and of course has an 80 hours power reserve. This calibre boasts a Nivachron balance spring too.
It's an impressive movement and visible through the sapphire crystal case back.
Finally, the strap.
It's black rubber with a blue fabric inlay and a small leather section. Importantly, it has a quick-release feature that I always find handy when I swap out straps.
Taken as a whole this is an impressive watch - more so when you judge it against similar Swiss-made models. It's slightly more affordable than equivalent watches from Doxa and Squale for example.
I can't fault the build quality and the attention to detail is impressive. A lot of that is because the Seastar 2000 is the latest iteration of Tissot's signature diver's watch.
A Quick Note About Tissot Seastar Watches
The Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional is the highest spec version of a watch line that first began in 1954. Bear in mind that Rolex released the Submariner that same year - a year after Blancpain and Zodiac released their modern divers.
So the Seastar line has some real history behind it.
The early Seastar models were little more than waterproof dress watches. But by the 1970s the line had become more sporty. The watches from 1972 featured an inner diving ring and 120M of water resistance.
The modern era of the Seastar really kicked off with the 2003 models. These featured a rotating bezel and a respectable 200M of water resistance. Following this came the real diver's models and ultimately the Seastar 1000 Professional. Debuted in 2018, the Seastar 1000 has been popular with watch fans.
From there it was a short jump to the watch that I have on my wrist now.
Conclusion
You need to see this watch in the flesh.
It's a large, bold professional dive watch that won't appeal to everyone. Tissot has described the watch as having muscular architecture and that sums up the Seastar 2000 well.
Another way to view it is as a beefed-up Seastar 1000. But if your arms haven't beefed up too you may find the 46mm too large.
But if a chunky 46mm case works for you then you'll want to take a closer look at this model. I don't mean that figurately - I mean it literally.
Because you may not appreciate the workmanship and stunning dial until you get to handle the watch. Until I'd handled the watch I'd underestimated the build quality and finish.
This isn't a desk diver - and I'd argue it's not a particularly versatile watch.
Instead, it's a high-spec diver's watch. A tool that has 600M of certified water resistance, a desirable Swiss-made automatic movement and a helium release valve. It's top of Tissot's diver's line and compares very well against similar Swiss offerings.
Thanks for the review. It’s a great watch. I enjoy the non-PVD version.
Certina’s Super PH500m is another higher-specification Swiss dive watch that compares well with the Seastar 2000 and MIDO’s COSC Ocean Star 600.